The Veiled Purl

All about crocheting, sewing, and knitting.


Sew Yourself a Messenger Bag


I was looking through some tutorials on messenger bags and honestly, I found them pretty confusing. But, the other day after a lot of thinking and 2 tries later,  I finally figured out how these darn things work. :) I had some left over fabric from a dress I made my niece, and I decided I would make her a matching bag.

*Because this is a child-sized bag, the handles/straps are kid-sized. I’ll let you guys know what to use for adult measurements in the tutorial* The final dimensions are around 9″x 10.5″ for the body of the bag and 27″ for the strap. On an adult the this messenger bag’s straps would be purse-like.

Materials for a 9″ x 10.5″ Bag (For a bigger bag, you’ll need a bit more material) :

Around 1/2 yard of main fabric x 52″ width. I highly recommend using flannel as your fabric. a) it’s pretty sturdy for a bag. b) Flannel looks… terrible after one wash. So since you are probably not going to be washing your bag, it’ll be the perfect fabric for it!
-Around 1/2 yard of lining/contrasting fabric x 52″ width. (again plz use flannel or a stiffer fabric. I bought my green fabric from joann for like 2$)
-Matching button
-Optional: Interfacing (Lining each of your fabric pieces with interfacing will make it sturdier. For my niece’s bag I did not use interfacing, but for my own bag I probably will)

Okay, let’s get crackin’! There will be a lot of pics and words, but making the actual bag is super easy. It’ll take only around 2.5 hours to make :)

  • Cut out two 12″ x10″ rectangles on your main fabric
  • Cut out two 12″x10″ rectangles on your lining/contrast fabric
  • Cut out one 8″ x9.5″ rectangle on your main fabric
  • Cut out one 8″ x 9.5″ rectangle on your lining fabric
  • Cut out one 6″x29″ rectangle on your main fabric **For an adult cut out 6×46″**

Cutting the flap:


This is the 8×9.5″ rectangle on your main fabric. Since this will turn into the flap, you will need to make a curve. To do so, use any circular object…yes even a contacts solution bottle will work ;) Repeat this same process with your 8×9.5″ lining fabric.

For the zipper compartment piece, measure your zipper from opening to end. Add .5″ seam allowance on each side. So if your zip is a 7″ one, cut out an 8″ x8″ box. **If you want to add pockets, you can easily do so. Just cut out the size you need and add seam allowance**




Mark the beginning and end of your zip on one of your contrasting 12×10 rectangles


Place your zipper designated fabric on top of the rectangle you just marked. Sew a rectangle around the points, leaving 0.5″ allowance on the top. Cut into your fabric as shown in the picture.


Squeeze your fabric through the hole you made, and iron it down. Pin your zipper in place and sew.


Turn the fabric around. Fold up your 8″ square and sew the 3 seams shown above. The 2 sides and the top. (I have a seam on the bottom because I added more fabric) **Be sure to only sew your 8″ square! Do not sew into the 12×10″ rectangle!**


Wohoo! You just sewed on a zip! Not so hard, yeah?


Sew your 2 flap pieces together. Clip the circular portions, turn the piece right side up. Iron in place, and top stitch for a neat finish.


Mark the point at which you want your button to be on the flap. Using a button foot, sew a button hole. Test to see if your button fits. :)

If you need, here is a great tutorial for sewing button holes.


Taking both of your 12×10 main fabric rectangles, sew up 3 sides, leaving the forth unsewn. Do the same for your contrasting fabric


Fold the 2 corners that you’ve just made, matching seam to seam to create a triangle of sorts. Mark down 1 1/2″ and draw a line from edge to edge. Sew on this line. This will create a stable base for your bag. Do the same for the contrasting fabric.


Iron the bottom and the sides so create a nice base. Looking like a bag already, yeah?


Take your strap fabric. Iron the edges in.


Fold strap in half, and iron. Top stitch both sides. This will help you avoid making a tube that you’ll have to turn inside out.


Place the right side of your flap on top of the right side of your body and sew in place


On the sides on your bag, sew on your straps. Again, right side on top of right side, so that the wrong sides are facing you.


Woah are we done already?? Nope, sorry just a few more steps!


Turn your contrasting body inside out, so that you are facing the wrong side. Place your main body with the flap + strap inside the contrasting body. Pin to place if need be.


Leave a 4″ space un-sewn! **Your flap portion must be sewn entirely, so the part that should be unsewn is the side directly opposite the flap**


From the small hole we just made, squeeze your fabrics out.


Place the contrasting fabric inside the main fabric. Top stitch the entire opening of your bag, fold in the gap so it looks neat!

Sew on your button. **Make sure to sew only the outer fabric. You do not want to see any seam on the inside**


~Phew! You are done :)


Hmm…what’s that thing sticking outta the bag?


Is that a…?!


Yup it’s my niece’s monkey plushie. :)

Well, I hope you all find this tutorial useful. Ask me questions if you have any.

+ As always, hit the like/follow button if you enjoyed this.

Have a great day everyone! =]



Fall Into Spring Dress: A Sewing Tutorial

 IMG_20130426_115017_838  IMG_20130426_115141_531 Don’t you just hate it when you have so much fabric but don’t know what to do with it? Sadly, I had a creative-block this entire week. But then finally, the other day I thought up a design and I created the Fall into Spring Dress! :)

This is suppperrr easy to make. No, really it is.

Here is what you’ll need:

-Around 1.5 yards of fabric or more. The width of the fabric should be 58″ (This will make the dress and the tights/churidar)
-Elastic Thread
-Bias Tape
-2 buttons
-Press buttons/snap buttons

***Click the pics to make ’em bigger***

The Steps:

This is a draft of the pattern I created for this dress. You could just use this to make the dress, but I’ll show you the steps too.


This is the bodice piece. You fold the fabric in half, so the width is 17″ and the full length is 13″ (this can be different depending on the size of your child. My niece wears clothes for 4-5 year olds.) You create a slant so that you should have a 6″ neckline and 3″ armholes. Cut the pieces.

The two skirt pieces should be 18″x36″. These are box pleat markings for the skirt. I did .5″ regular seam, and then 2″ for the first half of the box pleat and another 2″ for the second half. You repeat this pattern till the end of the skirt. (So its, .5″ mark, 2″ mark, 2″mark)


Shirr/Smock the two bodice pieces and then sew them together. An awesome tutorial on how to shirr/smock can be found here.

fs4 fs5 fs7
Using bias tape, we are going to make the straps. My straps were 15″ long. I left a bit on the ends to sew a clean edge. You start attaching from the back armhole and then go to the front and keep sewing until to the end of your strap.

fs9 fs10 fs11
I tried to create an actual button hole, but alas my bias tape was too strong for my machine. So, I decided to make faux buttons…that actually work. ;) so basically you attach the press button to the edges of the bias tape. Then to the front you sew a regular button.

Hem the skirt pieces and then make the box pleats. Join the skirt pieces together and attach this to your bodice portion.

Now follow this tutorial to make the churidar/tights with the rest of your fabric.

  IMG_20130426_115657_342   IMG_20130426_115222_199Yeah you are done! Simple right?I hope you guys have fun making this dress. Happy Friday!

P.S Don’t forget to hit the like/follow button :)



Cute Summer Dress

IMG_20130329_232203_678   IMG_20130329_231717_112

Okay so since my new sewing tutorial is WIP, I decided to post up this dress I made for my niece a few weeks ago. I found a tutorial for this cute dress on this amazing  website: Sewing in No Man’s Land

I only made one significant change: I gathered the skirt. :)

Any who, it was a really fun and easy dress to make + it didn’t require too much fabric. (I  just used the scraps I had left over from an abaya I made myself a while ago)

Well that’s all for now, and I’m hoping to post up my new tutorial soon, so stay in tune.

Have a great day everyone! :)


Crochet Puff Hat!


I made this hat a while ago for myself when I started crocheting. :) It was really fun to make and it was the first stylish hat I’ve ever crocheted. You can find the pattern here.

Recently, I made this hat again, but instead of using the above link as my guide I used crochet geek for this one. I found this easier to make.

Puff Hat

Also I gifted this one to my friend. :) I’m glad she really liked it.

That’s all for now. Have a great day!


So that’s a mullet skirt!?



I was a bit hesitant to make this skirt since I’d never stitched one before. So my first time making a mullet skirt was a bit… overwhelming. The circle skirt was easy enough to do, but the hemming was h-a-r-d, hard to do. Hence, my adding the cutesy ruffles.

Any-who, I broke up the outfit into a few parts to lesson the overwhelmingness. (yes, I’ve just invented a new word) Also, instead of just making a mullet skirt, I made a mullet dress for my niece. & let me tell you, she adores this outfit. She keeps running around in it and flouncing about.

Here are some more pictures:

IMG_20130409_133429_503  I have a semi-tutorial ready, so I might just put it up. Maybe. Let me know if any of you are interested.IMG_20130409_133147_379

Have a great day everyone! :)


Inspired by ModCloth

Firstly, I just made a body form/ mannequin out of duct tape! It was an…interesting experience. You see, I ran out of duct tape while doing the second layer and it ended up looking pretty…ugly. Even though it isn’t very appealing to the eyes, the body form still works perfectly! So, I decided to test it out on a recent outfit I made for my sister.


My take on the design

This design was inspired by an old design from Modcloth. I didn’t use a pattern, I just sort of drew up how I thought the dress was made and then sewed the dress myself. Truthfully this was an annoying outfit to make. 1) Because I’ve never done anything like it. 2) The neckline was a pain to do.

I had very limited amount of fabric (2.5-3 yards). This meant working around the amount of fabric, instead of focusing on the actual design. This can get pretty frustrating, especially when the design is something new too.

ModCloth outfit

So, I had to make some changes from the original ModCloth outfit. Here is the original=>

Unlike the original, I added less gathers on the top and bottom, and created a box pleated neckline with buttons. I also added a huge belt…which I probably went overboard with. But, I think it works, what say you all?

Here is a close up on the neckline:


The whole dress:


I really wanted to make a full pleated dress…but darn I didn’t have enough fabric >__< So it’s not as poofed from the bottom as the original is.

I’d love to make this dress again. There are many hijinks I think I know how to fix now that I’ve made this once. But, I’ll probably have to make this a few times to get it right.

That’s all for now.

Thanks for reading, and have a great day! =]

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To Measure or not to Measure?

Yes, sadly that is the question. Why sadly? Because I must confess…it’s a bit annoying to take measurements. Yes I just said that.

To start sewing an outfit, the first thing you really need to do is get measurements. Yeaahhh, how fun right? Not.  It’s a bit tedious, but once you get this down, you usually don’t have measure again unless you gain/lose weight. So hopefully it’ll be a one time thing.

I’ve divided the measuring process into “measurements in the round” and “measurements lengthwise” to make it easier. The following pictures show the measurements you will need to take:

**Click the pictures to make them bigger**


Front: Measurements in the round

1) Measure from front shoulder to shoulder.*Do not do this in the round* (when cutting add .5″ seam allowance)

2) Measure your “middle” armhole to armhole. *Do not do this in the round* (This will ensure great fit! Add a bit less than .5″seam allowance)

3) Measure the fullest part of your bust. (Add maybe an inch and a half(or more) for  comfort and also seam allowance.)

4) Measure your waist. To help find your waist, lean to one side and the crease you make is your waist. (Add inch(s) for comfort & seam)

5) Measure the fullest part of your hips. (again add a couple of inches for more comfort +seam)

Back: Measurements in the round

1) Measure your back shoulder to shoulder.*Do not do this in the round* (when cutting add .5″ seam allowance)

2) Measure your “middle” armhole to armhole *Do not do this in the round*(when comparing to the front, the back “middle” armhole length should be a bit wider)

Sleeve: Measurements in the round

1) Measure your armhole. (Add .5-1″ or more for comfort + seam)

2) Measure your bicep (Add ” for more comfort +seam)

3) Measure your elbow loosely (Add ” for more comfort +seam)

4) Measure your forearm (Add ” for more comfort +seam)

5) Measure your wrist (Add ” for more comfort +seam)


Front: Measurements lengthwise

1) Measure from the middle of your shoulder to “middle” armhole

2) Measure from the middle of your shoulder to the fullest part of your bust.

3) Measure from the middle of your shoulder to your waist. (bend sideways to see where your waist is)

4) Measure from the middle of your shoulder to your hips.

5) Measure from the middle of your shoulder to the full length your what your outfit to be.

Back: Measurements lengthwise

1) Measure from the middle of your shoulder to the “middle” armhole

Sleeve: Measurements lengthwise

Measure armhole length. (usually 7-8.5″)

1) Measure from tip of shoulder to bicep

2) Measure from tip of shoulder to elbow

3) Measure from tip of shoulder to forearm

4) Measure from tip of shoulder to wrist

Oh! Before I forget, also measure your front neckline. How wide you want it and how deep.

**Also when cutting the garments use the measurements for the back to cut out both front and back pieces. And then differentiate front and back pieces by cutting the front to accommodate the bust.**

Moving on to Toddler/children measurements:


**For toddlers, there isn’t really a differentiation between back and front.**

Front/Back Measurements in the round:

1) Shoulder to shoulder *Not in the round*

2) Width of neckline

3) End of armhole to armhole/ chest in the round. (Add ” for more comfort +seam)

4) Hips (Add ” for more comfort +seam)

Sleeve Measurements in the round:

1) Armhole (Add ” for more comfort +seam)

2) Bicep (Add ” for more comfort +seam)

3) Elbow (Add ” for more comfort +seam)

4) Wrist (Add ” for more comfort +seam)

Front/Back Measurements lengthwise:

1) Shoulder to armhole length

2) Shoulder to the length your want

Sleeve Measurements in lengthwise:

1) Tip of shoulder to bicep

2) Tip of shoulder to elbow

3) Tip of shoulder to wrist

** Also get the neckline measurements too, how wide you want and the depth. (I mentioned the width, but forgot to mention depth)

It’s hard to measure kids, so if they move around a lot you can use a shirt that fits them really well as a guideline.

That’s all for now. Let me know if you have any questions.

Happy blogging! :)



Free Sewing Tutorial: Flouncy Dress + Churidar Salwar (Lots of Pics)

The neckline & arm have elastic

The neckline & arm have elastic


The wrinkles/gathers at the bottom is what makes this salwar unique

The other day my sister gave me a kameez+salwar that she said she didn’t want anymore, so I decided to turn it into a Flouncy Dress + Churidar Salwar for my niece. The dress was really easy to make and so was the churidar.

Well, what are we waiting for? Let’s get crackin’!

Needed Materials: (Since I was making this outfit from an already made outfit, the yardage I say below is an estimate)

-Around 3/4 yards (you may need less/more depending on your little one’s size) of fabric for the top. (My niece wears clothes for a 4 year old, so this much fabric was good)

-Around 1(1.5)yard (you would need the fabric to be 1(1.5) yards x 54″ or more to have enough…more is always good) for the Chooridar salwar.

-Elastic! (I used the kind that you can find in the 99 cent store & come in 3 sizes) Use the smallest (1/4″) size for the neckline + arms. Use the 1/2″ for the chooridar.

**Click on the pictures to make them bigger**

Fl1I don’t use an official pattern where you print it out and put it onto the fabric. I basically draw out what I want and use this as a guide for when I cut out the fabric.

Okay so let’s officially start!

The Dress:

  1. Use the widest measurement you have and use this as a guide for how much you should start the folding with. Get your fabric and fold it in half length wise twice. (In this photo I have only folded it once because I’m using one side of the kameez, but since you guys should have the full fabric you can use the real method).
  2. Draw out a wide neckline. For a little kid, around 4.5″ is good.
  3. Draw out the armhole shape. You can use an old shirt for a guide.
  4. Draw the basic shape you want the dress to take. Use what ever length you desire the dress to be. (This one is 20″)


The Sleeve:

Use your bodice as a guide for cutting the armhole as shown:


Here is how the sleeve should look like. Make 2

Here is how the sleeve should look like. Make 2

Here is what this all should look like once cut:


The Churidar:

I think it’ll be best if you guys just see how I folded the fabric. I did one leg at a time.

  Fl6Fl7  Fl8

I had to switch sides to make sure the chooridar would fit my niece. Sorry bout the switcheroo

I had to switch sides to make sure the chooridar would fit my niece. Sorry bout the switcheroo


Fl10 Fl11 Fl12

Sewing The Dress:

Place the right side of one bodice armhole on top of the right side of one sleeve armhole so that the wrong side is facing up. Sew along the edge of the armhole leaving .5″ seam allowance. Do the this to the rest.



It should look this this when all sewn up. Now you can over-lock the edges before moving on so that nothing frays.

Now you are going to fold the neckline to create a hem for the elastic. **Make sure to leave a small portion unsewn so you can squeeze in the elastic**:

Fl15  Fl16 Fl17

Do the same to the sleeve:


Time to put in some elastic! Get your handy dandy safety pin and do this:

Fl20 Fl21  Fl22 Fl23


Now you rinse and repeat. Just kidding. Just do the same for the sleeves. And sew the ends of the elastic together.

Now just sew up the side seams. Don’t forget to over-lock. You are done with the Flouncy Dress!! (Sorry I don’t have pic)

Sewing the Churidar:

Remember the triangle piece we cut up earlier? You are going to:


I have no clue why I wrote: “Sew the seam to up.” Just ignore that and instead just sew these pieces together on both legs

This is a pic of it sewn together

This is a pic of it sewn together

Now you sew up the crotch seams, follow the pics:

One leg crotch ontop of another leg crotch

One leg crotch ontop of another leg crotch

It should look like this

It should look like this

Sew up the inner leg seams and hem the bottom and you are done!


I love the wrinkles on the bottom

I love the wrinkles on the bottom!


You are done! Congrats on making your first Flouncy Dress and Churidar. :) That wasn’t so bad was it?

I hope you have as much fun making it as I did. I would love to see any pictures you take if you make this outfit. Let me know if you have any questions.

Have a great day everyone!